Matthew Vassar - Sarah Josepha Hale Correspondence
A uniform at Vassar?
In establishing his college for women, Matthew Vassar had a lot on his mind concerning the student population that he would soon be welcoming on his new campus in the fall of 1865. Ideally, he looked forward to a group of women from a variety of backgrounds, both geographically and socioeconomically. While the College has had something of a reputation in this regard throughout most of its history, to a certain extent Vassar would get his wish, but he worried about how these young women would mix when thrown together.
The earliest college catalogues encouraged simplicity and frugality in everything that the students packed for school, and Vassar even considered going one step further by at least visually evening the social playing field among students with required uniforms.
For advice on the subject, Vassar naturally turned to his friend and correspondent Sarah Josepha Hale, Editor of the popular women’s fashion magazine Godey’s Ladies’ Book, and the result was the following correspondence. Hale’s response is fascinating; it would seem that she believed Vassar could prepare its students for the real world with more than just books.
-research by Molly Turpin ‘12
My dear Mrs. Hale,
For some months last past, my thoughts have been occupied with the idea of adopting a uniformity of costume for the pupils attending V.F. College—The object of which is just to prevent jealousy which usually in the minds of young persons in the articles of Dress—Secondly to secure more comfort and convenience to them while in School or at their playful recreations. Your fertile mind will readily suggest what these should be—their make and material—something that will be desirable, least needful of washing, repair +c and to consist of something like the “Bloomer Dress” which would give freedom to their persons whether in School or out of School for exercise. Will you please take the matter into consideration and at your early convenience inform me. Of course these garments are only for school hours and need not be expensive so that they will be available to all the pupils With [mere?] suggestions I am persuaded you can readily fill up the rest.
I remain Madame
Yours very respectfully
M. Vassar
Letter from Matthew Vassar to Sarah Josepha Hale, January 7, 1865
Courtesy of Archives & Special Collections Library, Vassar College
To which she replied:
“And now a few words on the subject of dress in Vassar College. I have heretofore considered this subject and written several articles in explanation of my views. If I can I will look up some of these papers for you; or I think of writing another article for my Eds. Table. which may be more satisfactory.
In the meantime – I do not consider Sumptuary laws of much use in the service of morality or of economy. Children are not taught to walk well by keeping them in leading strings. The individual will must act with the conscience, judgment must regulate taste or there would be no real improvement of the pupil. Besides, the distinctions of rich and poor are all around us: there will be richer and poorer in Vassar College. Would it be well to enforce an equality of personal appearance there which cannot be found in life?- Is not the training in your Institution intended to prepare the young ladies for their duties in the world – as it is?
It seems to me that character not costume will be the test of merit in Vassar College, and that thus the pupils will be best prepared for their duties of life. It might be well to announce that simplicity and appropriateness of dress will be expected of the pupils – and that any superfluous jewelry is disapproved. But I should not counsel uniformity of dress (!) apparel. – And any hint approaching the Bloomer standard would, I greatly fear, be a serious injury to the College.
Pray pardon y frankness; I write to you, my friend, as to a brother, The best good of the Institution is my only aim.
Truly yr. friend
Sarah J. Hale
Letter from Sarah Josepha Hale to Matthew Vassar, January 21,1865
Courtesy of Archives & Special Collections Library, Vassar College