Cream Wedding Dress of Silk Moire and Wool

Brief Item Record

Title: Cream Wedding Dress of Silk Moire and Wool

Date: 1890 (circa)

Description: Two piece wedding dress of cream wool blend and silk moire with metal supports and closures. Bodice (a) of cream wool blend; boned; high-hip length; pointed waistline; two waist darts on each side in front; princess seams in back; lacing at center front; lining has hook and eye closures; juliet sleeves with puff at top and then straight; square neckline with standing collar supported with wire. Skirt (b) of cream wool blend; floor length; draped box pleats on center left with angled cascade effect; front panel of silk moire. Attached bustle panel (c) of cream wool blend; floor length; hooks across top; pleating at center back.

Full Item Record

Dublin Core

Identifier

VC2004032

Title

Cream Wedding Dress of Silk Moire and Wool

Description

Two piece wedding dress of cream wool blend and silk moire with metal supports and closures. Bodice (a) of cream wool blend; boned; high-hip length; pointed waistline; two waist darts on each side in front; princess seams in back; lacing at center front; lining has hook and eye closures; juliet sleeves with puff at top and then straight; square neckline with standing collar supported with wire. Skirt (b) of cream wool blend; floor length; draped box pleats on center left with angled cascade effect; front panel of silk moire. Attached bustle panel (c) of cream wool blend; floor length; hooks across top; pleating at center back.

Date

1890 (circa)

Subject

Clothing and dress

Extent

25 inches (chest), 22 inches (waist), other measurements: 39 inches (skirt center front length); 38 (skirt center back length); 11 inches (bodice center front length); 20 inches (bodice center back length); 23 inches (bodice waist)

Type

Physical Object

Temporal Coverage

Rights

http://rightsstatements.org/vocab/InC-EDU/1.0/

Is Referenced By

For Better and For Worse

Rights Holder

© Vassar College Costume Collection. Images in this collection may be used for teaching, classroom presentation, and research purposes only. For other reuse, reproduction and publication of these images, contact costumeshop@vassar.edu.

Costume Item Type Metadata

Color Main

Technique

Dress Type

Closure

Closure Placement

Sleeve Type

Waistline

Skirt Type

Length

Costume Components

Chest

25

Waist

22

Measurements Other

39 inches (skirt center front length); 38 (skirt center back length); 11 inches (bodice center front length); 20 inches (bodice center back length); 23 inches (bodice waist)

All Measurements

25 inches (chest), 22 inches (waist), other measurements: 39 inches (skirt center front length); 38 (skirt center back length); 11 inches (bodice center front length); 20 inches (bodice center back length); 23 inches (bodice waist)

Donor

Nancy Brandon Allen

Date Earliest

1880

Date Latest

1892

Gender

Classification

costume
clothing

Category

Function

Exhibitions

For Better and For Worse, spring 2013

Condition Term

good

Condition Description

Tears on moire panel. Tears on skirt. Quite a but of discoloration. Thinning of skirt fabric. Moire panel is brittle. Stains on hem and bodice.

Treatment

The original collar of the bodice had been covered in a modern fabric; this covering was removed by Holly Hummel. Underneath this covering, the original collar was shredding. Candace Schuster straightened out the misshapen wires in the collar and the smoothed down the fabric as best as possible. Candace Schuster and Alexandra Figler attached conservation net to the front and back of the collar. Alexandra Figler then attached conservation net to the lapels and to the silk moire panel of the skirt. The bust and hip supports of the padded wooden mannequin were removed, and the mannequin was then re-shaped with light papier-mâché shoulders, re=padded to fit the garment, and covered. The mannequin was dressed with a bustle pad and petticoat as foundation garments to support the skirt. A thin synthetic satin cord was purchased to lace the bodice closed in the center front, as the original lacing has not survived.

Mannequin

Pauline

Storage Location

N8

Exhibition Notes

This dress was donated by Nancy Brandon Allen, VC Class of 1949. The silk moire has deteriorated, and has been covered with conservation net to prevent further tearing. The inset at the neck, and front lacing, are modern reproductions to provide a better view of what the dress would originally have looked like.

There were several trends that brides subscribed to in the 1870s. Not only did they wear bustles and orange blossoms, a symbol of maidenhood and fertility, they also began to wear white. Though Queen Victoria wasn’t the first bride to wear the color at her wedding, she was the one to popularize it in 1840. As Godey’s Lady Book noted a few years after the wedding, “Custom has decided, from the earliest ages, that white is the most fitting hue, whatever may be the material.” However, there were brides who continued to wear other colors, such as blue or the ivory of this dress, allowing them to reuse the garment.

- by Alexandra Figler ‘16 and Holly Hummel

Work Type

Citation

“Cream Wedding Dress of Silk Moire and Wool,” Vassar College Costume Collection, accessed July 14, 2024, https://vccc.vassarspaces.net/items/show/1147.

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