The Influence of Physical Education

If the ideas of "fashion" and "education" seem sometimes to be at odds, the idea of "physical education" and "fashion" appear even more so. However, it is in its break from traditional women's fashion that athletic wear is so important. This is shown in the book When the Girls Came Out to Play, in which Patricia Campbell Warner traces the history of sports wear for women, showing a dichotomy between fashionable dress for public sports activities and more practical dress for the unique situation of private physical education classes in women's schools. In nineteenth century public settings, or even private settings with fathers or brothers present, it was unacceptable for women to wear any form of pants. Full trousers under a short skirt, called a "Bloomer Costume" after worn publicly by Amelia Bloomer in the mid 1800's, were considered ridiculous by mainstream media of the time (see the Vassar/Hale letters on display). However, in women's schools in the later 1800's, similar outfits were not only accepted, they were required as a uniform for physical education classes, where they were seen only by other women.
 
Thought to counteract the negative effect of serious mental study on the reproductive health of women, physical activity was required in most early women's schools. At Vassar, as at other women's colleges at the time, this interest in athletics quickly grew from class activities to extracurricular team sports, including baseball, basketball, and field hockey. Vassar's Athletic Association was founded in 1894 and Vassar was the home of the country's first college field day for women in 1895. At this event, athletes competed against peers from other classes. Competition against other schools was still discouraged.
 
Though the woolen, long-sleeved, full-legged early gym suit may seem thoroughly impractical to our eyes, it was in fact a highly practical relative to the fashionable dress of the time which was still worn for public sports activities (see the tennis image shown here). The three gym suits on display here show the transitions that sports wear have moved through to get us to the close-fitting, comfortable athletic wear that is worn today. The relative comfort and practicality of gym suits was greatly appreciated by the lucky women provided the private setting in which to wear them. This went on to influence their choices in fashionable dress. Even if you're not an athletics fan, you have to appreciate the role that women's athletics has played in the acceptance of comfortable, practical dress for all women.
 
-this section by Arden Kirkland '93 with research help from Alyssa Cowley '11 and Emilia Petrarca '14