1900s Cream and Black Day Dress
Cream and Black Printed Silk Dress with Black Lace, circa 1902
Gift of Marcia Goldman Widenor, VC Class of 1951
Vassar College Historic Costume Collection, VC2007033
360 view at full size“Individuality of fashion was the keynote of the era”
- Ruby Miller, Champagne From My Slipper
The peaceful politics of the early 1900s prompted a lifestyle of leisure and excess, which in turn allowed fashion to blossom. The increased use of innovative technology, such as steamboats and railways, enabled fashion magazines and fabrics to reach rural communities. This, in combination with the influence of Art Nouveau artists such as Alfons Mucha and John Singer Sergeant, resulted in rapidly shifting fashion that emphasized extravagance and individuality. This time period would become known as the Belle Époque or Beautiful era.
It was only a Belle Époque for those who could afford it. Upper-middle-class women followed the styles of the elite to the best of their abilities with their more limited budget. The high demand for fashion and the regard for leading couture designers came at contrast to the way fashion workers were treated. It was common for wealthy women, and even famous actresses, to be in debt to their tailors, who often were forced to take legal action to receive their payment. On the other end of the spectrum, ready-made clothes were made by working-class women, who worked in unregulated and often unsafe sweatshops for pitiful wages.
View of the printed fabric, a popular choice for daydresses of the time.
Detail view of lace on dress back.
The lace used in this piece is delicate, and has deteriorated more swiftly than the stronger silk fabric.
![Image of item](https://vccc.vassarspaces.net/files/fullsize/55b34a112949faf245254affec9ce997.jpg ""The Arts - Music" by Alfons Mucha")
"The Arts - Music" by Alfons Mucha
Though the exact history of this dress is not known, it was most likely a custom garment constructed for a wealthy woman who wished to follow the latest fashion trends. The dress exemplifies the natural aesthetics characterized by the prominent Art Nouveau movement. Artists associated with this movement such as Alfons Mucha, Gustav Klimt, and Aubrey Beardsley emphasized curved lines and organic forms in their work. In looking closely at this ensemble, the influence of this art form can be seen through the organic curves of the patterned fabric and the lightweight, flowing drape of the garment itself. Additionally, upon further examination of this dress, there are two elements that stand out; the high necked collar as well as the short sleeves. These elements would not usually have appeared together, as a high neckline was typical of day dresses, and short sleeves were only seen in evening dresses. However, raw edges on the sleeves denote the existence of a missing piece, which most likely was made of lace and quickly deteriorated. Knowing this, the ensemble can be classified as a day dress and could have been worn to one of the many daytime leisure activities of the era.
This dress sits comfortably in the culture of its contemporaries. It is up to date on current fashion trends without pushing boundaries. Its delicate details and fine fabrics are an accurate representation of a culture that emphasized wealth, leisure, and excess. As clothing worn by lower classes was often reused, remade, and passed down until the garment wore out, the survival of this dress, mostly intact, is another marker of this owner’s wealth.
- Julianna Bencze, '21