Pink Morning Robe with Lace Yoke

Brief Item Record

Title: Pink Morning Robe with Lace Yoke

Description: pink morning robe w/tiny cream polka dots, lace yoke and cuffs, small black velvet strip at hem and yoke; Pink silk with small cream polka dots; cream polished cotton; cream silk organza; quarter inch wide black silk velvet ribbon; cream cotton crocheted lace; cream cotton embellished netting; two metal hooks



Robe has square yoke, four inches down from shoulder seam in back, seven inches in front; yoke overlayed with cream crocheted lace, two strands velvet ribbon threaded through neckline, three ribbons outlining yoke; six inch wide netting gathered into yoke across front and over shoulder, yoke mounted to ungathered cotton lining extending 14 inches at center front, and even with style stitching across back; Full 3/4 length bishop sleeve, ruching 5 inches below shoulder across outer sleeve, cuff finished with black ribbon and gathered netting 4.5 inches wide; back robe gathered into yoke, 2 rows of stitching one inch apart creating styleline from center back yoke to 4.5 inches below under arm; godet beginning 21 inches below yoke and extending into curved train; side seam 19 inches from under arm to godet, 27 inches long 7 inches wide at hem; robe front gathered into yoke, open at center front to 24 inches below yoke, 3 inch bias ruffle along hem headed by 3 rows black ribbon, 3 inch wide hem facing in silk organza

Full Item Record

Dublin Core

Identifier

VC2001154

Title

Pink Morning Robe with Lace Yoke

Description

pink morning robe w/tiny cream polka dots, lace yoke and cuffs, small black velvet strip at hem and yoke; Pink silk with small cream polka dots; cream polished cotton; cream silk organza; quarter inch wide black silk velvet ribbon; cream cotton crocheted lace; cream cotton embellished netting; two metal hooks



Robe has square yoke, four inches down from shoulder seam in back, seven inches in front; yoke overlayed with cream crocheted lace, two strands velvet ribbon threaded through neckline, three ribbons outlining yoke; six inch wide netting gathered into yoke across front and over shoulder, yoke mounted to ungathered cotton lining extending 14 inches at center front, and even with style stitching across back; Full 3/4 length bishop sleeve, ruching 5 inches below shoulder across outer sleeve, cuff finished with black ribbon and gathered netting 4.5 inches wide; back robe gathered into yoke, 2 rows of stitching one inch apart creating styleline from center back yoke to 4.5 inches below under arm; godet beginning 21 inches below yoke and extending into curved train; side seam 19 inches from under arm to godet, 27 inches long 7 inches wide at hem; robe front gathered into yoke, open at center front to 24 inches below yoke, 3 inch bias ruffle along hem headed by 3 rows black ribbon, 3 inch wide hem facing in silk organza

Subject

Clothing and dress

Extent

85 inches (chest), 91 inches (hips), 54 inches (center front length), 64 inches (center back length), other measurements: Circumference taken 12 inches above centerback hem: 104 inches; over sleeve: 21 inches; width across yoke center front to armscye: 8 inches; width across yoke center back to armscye: 7 inches

Medium

cotton
metal
silk

Type

Physical Object

Temporal Coverage

1890s

Rights

http://rightsstatements.org/vocab/InC-EDU/1.0/

Rights Holder

© Vassar College Costume Collection. Images in this collection may be used for teaching, classroom presentation, and research purposes only. For other reuse, reproduction and publication of these images, contact costumeshop@vassar.edu.

Costume Item Type Metadata

Cataloguer with Date

Arden Kirkland

Julia Fields, May 2012

Color Main

pink

Chest

85

Hips

91

Center Front Length

54

Center Back Length

64

Measurements Other

Circumference taken 12 inches above centerback hem: 104 inches; over sleeve: 21 inches; width across yoke center front to armscye: 8 inches; width across yoke center back to armscye: 7 inches

All Measurements

85 inches (chest), 91 inches (hips), 54 inches (center front length), 64 inches (center back length), other measurements: Circumference taken 12 inches above centerback hem: 104 inches; over sleeve: 21 inches; width across yoke center front to armscye: 8 inches; width across yoke center back to armscye: 7 inches

References

http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/80005993?rpp=20&pg=1&ft=%22dressing+gown%22&pos=9

Classification

costume
clothing

Category

Underwear

Function

nightwear

Exhibitions

Vanya 2012 Poster

Condition Term

fair

Condition Description

Discoloration , Severe staining

February 2012: Staining along hemline, small holes at right front below yoke, stain left front below yoke, underarm staining, significant fading and discoloration at back right, unstitched center back seam

Mannequin

Amy

Storage Location

Q5

Exhibition Notes

There is some confusion in this piece about when various seams were made, especially on the back gathering seams around the shoulder blades. Each side has two hand-stitched and two machine-stitched seams, essentially providing the same function. Only the machine-stitched ones go through the off-white lining layer also. Where the seams made at the same time? If not, why was the second set necessary? Was that gathering part of the original design or was it a later addition by someone toying with a new style?
The sleeves are in two pieces diagonally. It appears that the maker attempted to line up the pattern but the alignment is slightly off. Why are two pieces used? Fabric not wide enough? using scraps? Shape issue?
What about the black seams at the ruffles and velvet strips?

Work Type

robe

Citation

“Pink Morning Robe with Lace Yoke,” Vassar College Costume Collection, accessed September 26, 2023, https://vccc.vassarspaces.net/items/show/995.

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VanyaPoster.jpg