Black Striped Bodice with Bishop Sleeves
Brief Item Record
Title: Black Striped Bodice with Bishop Sleeves
Date: 1895-1905
Description: Black wool bodice with white pinstripe of silk/cotton thread, trimmed with black velvet ribbon. Thin black velvet ribbon trim, wide black velvet ribbon collar, metal boning,and hooks and eyes.; black wool bodice with white pinstripe of silk/cotton thread; trimmed with black velvet ribbon; wide black velvet ribbon attached at CB of neck for collar; lining meets w/hooks and eyes at CF, covered with outer fabric gathered to pouf; thin black velvet ribbon in stripes to form triangular front yoke; velvet ribbon trim applied more vertically on back; black velvet ribbon trim also at cuffs
Full Item Record
Dublin Core
Identifier
VC1992138
Title
Black Striped Bodice with Bishop Sleeves
Description
Black wool bodice with white pinstripe of silk/cotton thread, trimmed with black velvet ribbon. Thin black velvet ribbon trim, wide black velvet ribbon collar, metal boning,and hooks and eyes.; black wool bodice with white pinstripe of silk/cotton thread; trimmed with black velvet ribbon; wide black velvet ribbon attached at CB of neck for collar; lining meets w/hooks and eyes at CF, covered with outer fabric gathered to pouf; thin black velvet ribbon in stripes to form triangular front yoke; velvet ribbon trim applied more vertically on back; black velvet ribbon trim also at cuffs
Date
1895-1905
Subject
Clothing and dress
Extent
26.5 inches (waist), 17 inches (center back length),
Type
Physical Object
Spatial Coverage
Temporal Coverage
Rights
http://rightsstatements.org/vocab/InC-EDU/1.0/
Rights Holder
© Vassar College Costume Collection. Images in this collection may be used for teaching, classroom presentation, and research purposes only. For other reuse, reproduction and publication of these images, contact costumeshop@vassar.edu.
Costume Item Type Metadata
Cataloguer with Date
Arden Kirkland 4/11/1993
Color Main
Closure
Waist
26.5
Center Back Length
17
All Measurements
26.5 inches (waist), 17 inches (center back length),
References
Moore, 149 (1902), 152 (1903); 148 - sleeves 'pouched'at ends, bodice pouched = 'Russian blouse'effect (origin of term unknown)Gorsline, 202 (1895-1900)Arnold vol. 2, 52 (1902-3) - sleevesMalonff, 59 (1902)Waugh, the Cut of Women's Clothes, diagram LXII (1901)
Date Earliest
1895
Date Latest
1905
Culture
Gender
Classification
costume
clothing
Category
Exhibitions
Vassar Girls and Other Women
Public Information
These two bodices represent the development of sportswear in the early twentieth century. 1992.48, of navy blue silk faille with a yoke of red wool trimmed with horizontal stripes of black braid, is a youthful, sporty version of the sailor or middy blouse, fitted to the silhouette of 1900-1905. While separate gymsuits existed by that time for private single sex sports activities (see #7 and #8), more public events, especially those at which men would be in attendance, would require a look more in keeping with the prevailing fashions of the day. This bodice, neither middy nor fashionable waist, is a compromise between the two.1992.138, however, of black wool with a white pinstripe and black velvet ribbon trim, is a more sophisticated, slightly less casual approach to similarly informal events. Designed in a less sporty nature, it may well have been worn for classes or other such day-to day situations. While both bodices express participation in the 'compartmentalized day' discussed above, they simultaneously express a breaking down of certain formalities: the achievement of a compromise between certain activities, traditions, and styles.
Condition Term
good
Condition Description
lining torn near C on R front; ends of ribbon collar are fraying (no closure?)
Storage Location
B6
Holding Institution
Exhibition Notes
4black and white striped wool waist, c. 19021992.1385sailor style waist of navy wool, 1900-19051992.48These two bodices represent the development of sportswear in the early twentieth century. 1992.48, of navy blue silk faille with a yoke of red wool trimmed with horizontal stripes of black braid, is a youthful, sporty version of the sailor or middy blouse, fitted to the silhouette of 1900-1905. While separate gymsuits existed by that time for private single sex sports activities (see #7 and #8), more public events, especially those at which men would be in attendance, would require a look more in keeping with the prevailing fashions of the day. This bodice, neither middy nor fashionable waist, is a compromise between the two.1992.138, however, of black wool with a white pinstripe and black velvet ribbon trim, is a more sophisticated, slightly less casual approach to similarly informal events. Designed in a less sporty nature, it may well have been worn for classes or other such day-to day situations. While both bodices express participation in the 'compartmentalized day' discussed above, they simultaneously express a breaking down of certain formalities: the achievement of a compromise between certain activities, traditions, and styles.
Work Type
Pattern
Citation
“Black Striped Bodice with Bishop Sleeves,” Vassar College Costume Collection, accessed September 26, 2023, https://vccc.vassarspaces.net/items/show/810.