Black Striped Bodice with Bishop Sleeves

Brief Item Record

Title: Black Striped Bodice with Bishop Sleeves

Date: 1895-1905

Description: Black wool bodice with white pinstripe of silk/cotton thread, trimmed with black velvet ribbon. Thin black velvet ribbon trim, wide black velvet ribbon collar, metal boning,and hooks and eyes.; black wool bodice with white pinstripe of silk/cotton thread; trimmed with black velvet ribbon; wide black velvet ribbon attached at CB of neck for collar; lining meets w/hooks and eyes at CF, covered with outer fabric gathered to pouf; thin black velvet ribbon in stripes to form triangular front yoke; velvet ribbon trim applied more vertically on back; black velvet ribbon trim also at cuffs

Full Item Record

Dublin Core

Identifier

VC1992138

Title

Black Striped Bodice with Bishop Sleeves

Description

Black wool bodice with white pinstripe of silk/cotton thread, trimmed with black velvet ribbon. Thin black velvet ribbon trim, wide black velvet ribbon collar, metal boning,and hooks and eyes.; black wool bodice with white pinstripe of silk/cotton thread; trimmed with black velvet ribbon; wide black velvet ribbon attached at CB of neck for collar; lining meets w/hooks and eyes at CF, covered with outer fabric gathered to pouf; thin black velvet ribbon in stripes to form triangular front yoke; velvet ribbon trim applied more vertically on back; black velvet ribbon trim also at cuffs

Date

1895-1905

Subject

Clothing and dress

Extent

26.5 inches (waist), 17 inches (center back length),

Type

Physical Object

Spatial Coverage

Temporal Coverage

Rights

http://rightsstatements.org/vocab/InC-EDU/1.0/

Rights Holder

© Vassar College Costume Collection. Images in this collection may be used for teaching, classroom presentation, and research purposes only. For other reuse, reproduction and publication of these images, contact costumeshop@vassar.edu.

Costume Item Type Metadata

Cataloguer with Date

Arden Kirkland 4/11/1993

Color Main

Closure

Waist

26.5

Center Back Length

17

All Measurements

26.5 inches (waist), 17 inches (center back length),

References

Moore, 149 (1902), 152 (1903); 148 - sleeves 'pouched'at ends, bodice pouched = 'Russian blouse'effect (origin of term unknown) Gorsline, 202 (1895-1900) Arnold vol. 2, 52 (1902-3) - sleeves Malonff, 59 (1902) Waugh, the Cut of Women's Clothes, diagram LXII (1901)

Date Earliest

1895

Date Latest

1905

Culture

Gender

Classification

costume
clothing

Category

Exhibitions

Vassar Girls and Other Women

Public Information

These two bodices represent the development of sportswear in the early twentieth century. 1992.48, of navy blue silk faille with a yoke of red wool trimmed with horizontal stripes of black braid, is a youthful, sporty version of the sailor or middy blouse, fitted to the silhouette of 1900-1905. While separate gymsuits existed by that time for private single sex sports activities (see #7 and #8), more public events, especially those at which men would be in attendance, would require a look more in keeping with the prevailing fashions of the day. This bodice, neither middy nor fashionable waist, is a compromise between the two. 1992.138, however, of black wool with a white pinstripe and black velvet ribbon trim, is a more sophisticated, slightly less casual approach to similarly informal events. Designed in a less sporty nature, it may well have been worn for classes or other such day-to day situations. While both bodices express participation in the 'compartmentalized day' discussed above, they simultaneously express a breaking down of certain formalities: the achievement of a compromise between certain activities, traditions, and styles.

Condition Term

good

Condition Description

lining torn near C on R front; ends of ribbon collar are fraying (no closure?)

Storage Location

B6

Exhibition Notes

4 black and white striped wool waist, c. 1902 1992.138 5 sailor style waist of navy wool, 1900-1905 1992.48 These two bodices represent the development of sportswear in the early twentieth century. 1992.48, of navy blue silk faille with a yoke of red wool trimmed with horizontal stripes of black braid, is a youthful, sporty version of the sailor or middy blouse, fitted to the silhouette of 1900-1905. While separate gymsuits existed by that time for private single sex sports activities (see #7 and #8), more public events, especially those at which men would be in attendance, would require a look more in keeping with the prevailing fashions of the day. This bodice, neither middy nor fashionable waist, is a compromise between the two. 1992.138, however, of black wool with a white pinstripe and black velvet ribbon trim, is a more sophisticated, slightly less casual approach to similarly informal events. Designed in a less sporty nature, it may well have been worn for classes or other such day-to day situations. While both bodices express participation in the 'compartmentalized day' discussed above, they simultaneously express a breaking down of certain formalities: the achievement of a compromise between certain activities, traditions, and styles.

Work Type

Pattern

Citation

“Black Striped Bodice with Bishop Sleeves,” Vassar College Costume Collection, accessed July 6, 2024, https://vccc.vassarspaces.net/items/show/810.