Dark Blue Ensemble with Crocheted Lace

Brief Item Record

Title: Dark Blue Ensemble with Crocheted Lace

Date: 1905 (circa)

Description: Dark blue crepe two-part dress with crocheted lace insets and black and green pleat details; band collar neckline; open front pleated bodice with crochet insets at collar and bust; hook and eye closures center front and back waist; taffeta bias tape trim in green and black center front; elbow length puff sleeves with crochet and taffeta cuffs; smocking; skirt of crepe and lace with hook and eye closures at center back waist; triangular yolk of lace in front; lace strips not backed; tucks from waist to hipline. ; ensemble of dark blue with ecru crocheted lace (day) 2 piece - navy blue crepe + ecru crocheted lace w/ taffeta bias tape trim in green + black; (a) bodice of crepe + lace has boned standing collar which attaches to neckline w/ hooks/eyes; gathered at panel @ CF closes with only a few hooks/eyes tp cover actual CF hook/eye closures; rest of bodice in tucks, elbow length puff sleeves w/ crocheted lace trim cuff; (b) skirt of crepe and lace w/ hook/eye closure @ waist CB; triangular yoke of lace; 2 side lace panels continue throughout back, lace strips not backed; tucks from waist to hipline; train

Full Item Record

Dublin Core

Identifier

VC1992125

Title

Dark Blue Ensemble with Crocheted Lace

Description

Dark blue crepe two-part dress with crocheted lace insets and black and green pleat details; band collar neckline; open front pleated bodice with crochet insets at collar and bust; hook and eye closures center front and back waist; taffeta bias tape trim in green and black center front; elbow length puff sleeves with crochet and taffeta cuffs; smocking; skirt of crepe and lace with hook and eye closures at center back waist; triangular yolk of lace in front; lace strips not backed; tucks from waist to hipline. ; ensemble of dark blue with ecru crocheted lace (day) 2 piece - navy blue crepe + ecru crocheted lace w/ taffeta bias tape trim in green + black; (a) bodice of crepe + lace has boned standing collar which attaches to neckline w/ hooks/eyes; gathered at panel @ CF closes with only a few hooks/eyes tp cover actual CF hook/eye closures; rest of bodice in tucks, elbow length puff sleeves w/ crocheted lace trim cuff; (b) skirt of crepe and lace w/ hook/eye closure @ waist CB; triangular yoke of lace; 2 side lace panels continue throughout back, lace strips not backed; tucks from waist to hipline; train

Date

1905 (circa)

Subject

Clothing and dress

Extent

25 inches (waist), 67.75 inches (center back length), other measurements: 15 inches (center back B); 52.75 inches (center back A); 41 inches (center front A); 27.5 inches (waist B); 25 inches (waist A)

Type

Physical Object

Spatial Coverage

Temporal Coverage

Rights

http://rightsstatements.org/vocab/InC-EDU/1.0/

Rights Holder

© Vassar College Costume Collection. Images in this collection may be used for teaching, classroom presentation, and research purposes only. For other reuse, reproduction and publication of these images, contact costumeshop@vassar.edu.

Costume Item Type Metadata

Cataloguer with Date

Arden Kirkland 4/11/1993

Color Main

Color Secondary

Closure

Closure Placement

Collar

Sleeve Type

Sleeve Length

Waistline

Skirt Type

Length

Waist

25

Center Back Length

67.75

Measurements Other

15 inches (center back B); 52.75 inches (center back A); 41 inches (center front A); 27.5 inches (waist B); 25 inches (waist A)

All Measurements

25 inches (waist), 67.75 inches (center back length), other measurements: 15 inches (center back B); 52.75 inches (center back A); 41 inches (center front A); 27.5 inches (waist B); 25 inches (waist A)

References

Warrell, Estelle Ansley 'American Costume: 1840-1920” Harrisburg: Stockpile Books, 1979 - p. 146, fig. 236 Wilcox, 350-1; Contini, 270; Waugh, 'Cut”, diagram LXII, p. 280 Halle, 89 (1904) of ter? dress; Bourlen, 397; 4.7; Batterberry, 261; Moore, 154

Date Earliest

1900

Date Latest

1910

Culture

Gender

Classification

costume
clothing

Category

Function

Exhibitions

Vassar Girls and Other Women

Public Information

This dress is a later, more 'feminine' approach to public situations of the early 1900's and is more appropriate for a spring or summer casual setting. It might have been worn for an afternoon garden party, where those in attendance would have been friends and family with whom the wearer could feel comfortable with shorter sleeves and a lighter weight dress. Such short sleeves and more delicate lines reflect not only the possibility of a more private occasion, but also the changes that took place in attitudes toward those elements between the 1880's and the 1900's, a period of transition between the nineteenth century covering and decoration in order to elaborate upon the female body versus the later twentieth century celebration of the less covered female body.

Condition Term

fair

Condition Description

a--frayed bodice, hole in left shoulder fabric skirt: small hole of CF slighlty below hipline, hemline = fraying in some places bodice: bring broken in standing collar, green + black at CF coming loose

Mannequin

1992.125.ab

Storage Location

P10

Exhibition Notes

3 afternoon dress of navy blue crepe with ecru crocheted lace, c. 1903 1992.125ab This dress is a later, more 'feminine' approach to public situations of the early 1900's and is more appropriate for a spring or summer casual setting. It might have been worn for an afternoon garden party, where those in attendance would have been friends and family with whom the wearer could feel comfortable with shorter sleeves and a lighter weight dress. Such short sleeves and more delicate lines reflect not only the possibility of a more private occasion, but also the changes that took place in attitudes toward those elements between the 1880's and the 1900's, a period of transition between the nineteenth century covering and decoration in order to elaborate upon the female body versus the later twentieth century celebration of the less covered female body.

Work Type

Citation

“Dark Blue Ensemble with Crocheted Lace,” Vassar College Costume Collection, accessed September 26, 2023, https://vccc.vassarspaces.net/items/show/797.

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