Natural Linen Morning Gown
Brief Item Record
Title: Natural Linen Morning Gown
Date: 1870-1879
Description: Bustle-style morning dress of ecru linen gauze, pink silk ribbon, rust silk ribbon, and cotton crocheted lace, composed of overdress and underskirt ; ecru linen gauze, pink silk ribbon, rust silk ribbon, cotton crocheted lace, Bustle-style morning dress a) overdress of gauze, lace + ribbon trim; lace collar w/ ribbon flower trim (modern trim); long sleeves w/ lace + ribbon at cuffs; hook/eye closure at CF to waist, then parted to reveal underskirt; hem cut at angle, w/ large points at CF & CB; interior pleat opens up above knee (below bustle) (b) underskirt, of gauze, lace + ribbon trim; floor length w/ train; button closure at CB waist, then waist then hooks + eyes down CB; peach + rust satin ribbon bow @ CB hem = modern; 2 pleated ruffles @hem, straight train
Full Item Record
Dublin Core
Identifier
VC1992114
Title
Natural Linen Morning Gown
Description
Bustle-style morning dress of ecru linen gauze, pink silk ribbon, rust silk ribbon, and cotton crocheted lace, composed of overdress and underskirt ; ecru linen gauze, pink silk ribbon, rust silk ribbon, cotton crocheted lace, Bustle-style morning dress a) overdress of gauze, lace + ribbon trim; lace collar w/ ribbon flower trim (modern trim); long sleeves w/ lace + ribbon at cuffs; hook/eye closure at CF to waist, then parted to reveal underskirt; hem cut at angle, w/ large points at CF & CB; interior pleat opens up above knee (below bustle) (b) underskirt, of gauze, lace + ribbon trim; floor length w/ train; button closure at CB waist, then waist then hooks + eyes down CB; peach + rust satin ribbon bow @ CB hem = modern; 2 pleated ruffles @hem, straight train
Date
1870-1879
Subject
Clothing and dress
Extent
25.5 inches (waist), 60 inches (center back length), other measurements: overdress: lat CB = 6.5, Lat CF = 52.5, waist = 32 skirt: lat CB = 45, Lat CF = 40, waist = 25.5
Type
Physical Object
Rights
http://rightsstatements.org/vocab/InC-EDU/1.0/
Rights Holder
© Vassar College Costume Collection. Images in this collection may be used for teaching, classroom presentation, and research purposes only. For other reuse, reproduction and publication of these images, contact costumeshop@vassar.edu.
Costume Item Type Metadata
Cataloguer with Date
Arden Kirkland 4/11/1993; Faren Tang, Julie Fields, Sierra Starr, Molly Turpin 3/5/2010
Color Main
Waist
25.5
Center Back Length
60
Measurements Other
overdress: lat CB = 6.5, Lat CF = 52.5, waist = 32 skirt: lat CB = 45, Lat CF = 40, waist = 25.5
All Measurements
25.5 inches (waist), 60 inches (center back length), other measurements: overdress: lat CB = 6.5, Lat CF = 52.5, waist = 32 skirt: lat CB = 45, Lat CF = 40, waist = 25.5
References
3 piece gauze morning gown in Vassar Quarterly article, Fall 1976 (Wilcox, 310) Bradfield, 237-8 (1875/6) 1860-1940 Arnold (1878) Collard, part 4, p20 (polonaise) Costume Institute x51.7.6 (American, 1870s)
Date Earliest
1870
Date Latest
1879
Gender
Classification
costume
clothing
Category
Function
Exhibitions
Vassar Girls and Other Women
Public Information
(ribbon trim is a modern addition) This morning gown, or 'matinée' of the 1870's, is one important example of clothing for a compartmentalized day. Made of a lightweight natural linen, it is too sheer to be appropriate for wear outside of the house. The trim of the dress is very simple in order to accommodate the possibility of its wearer performing certain household chores. Yet the loose fitting quality of the overdress of this ensemble is also important; the unconstrained waist, even if corseted underneath, might be considered too provocative to be worn in a more public setting.
Condition Term
good
Condition Description
tapes at inside CB to drape bustle are modern replacements very browned(?), some general wear, no serious problems, no sewn tag
Mannequin
size 7 (Miss Hummel's) or 1992.008ab
Storage Location
H2
Holding Institution
Exhibition Notes
1 natural linen morning gown, 1870's 1992.114ab (ribbon trim is a modern addition) This morning gown, or 'matinée' of the 1870's, is one important example of clothing for a compartmentalized day. Made of a lightweight natural linen, it is too sheer to be appropriate for wear outside of the house. The trim of the dress is very simple in order to accommodate the possibility of its wearer performing certain household chores. Yet the loose fitting quality of the overdress of this ensemble is also important; the unconstrained waist, even if corseted underneath, might be considered too provocative to be worn in a more public setting.
Citation
“Natural Linen Morning Gown,” Vassar College Costume Collection, accessed September 12, 2024, https://vccc.vassarspaces.net/items/show/786.
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