Ivory Satin Ensemble with Oriental Print

Brief Item Record

Title: Ivory Satin Ensemble with Oriental Print

Date: 1893-1905

Description: Ivory satin bodice and skirt with print; off-white solid silk satin with sections of blue/olive/gray patterned silk brocade; fabric covered metal boning; fabric covered buttons; metal hooks and eyes; lining in a square pattern (possibly cotton); cotton muslin lining for sleeves; A: Bodice with short puffed sleeves and teal brocade stomacher that buttons down center front; has boning; square neckline; B: Floor length A-line skirt with gathers at back waist; train in back; ivory trim; center back hook and eye closure; ribbon band along inner lining, midway down; pocket at center back.

Full Item Record

Dublin Core

Identifier

VC1992082

Title

Ivory Satin Ensemble with Oriental Print

Description

Ivory satin bodice and skirt with print; off-white solid silk satin with sections of blue/olive/gray patterned silk brocade; fabric covered metal boning; fabric covered buttons; metal hooks and eyes; lining in a square pattern (possibly cotton); cotton muslin lining for sleeves; A: Bodice with short puffed sleeves and teal brocade stomacher that buttons down center front; has boning; square neckline; B: Floor length A-line skirt with gathers at back waist; train in back; ivory trim; center back hook and eye closure; ribbon band along inner lining, midway down; pocket at center back.

Date

1893-1905

Subject

Clothing and dress

Extent

Bodice: 28 inches (chest); 26 inches (waist); 14.5 inches (center front length); 14 inches (center back length)

Skirt: 30 inches (waist), 2 inch extension added; 41 inches (center front length); 53.5 inches (center back length); 186 inches (hem circumference)

Type

Physical Object

Temporal Coverage

Rights

http://rightsstatements.org/vocab/InC-EDU/1.0/

Rights Holder

© Vassar College Costume Collection. Images in this collection may be used for teaching, classroom presentation, and research purposes only. For other reuse, reproduction and publication of these images, contact costumeshop@vassar.edu.

Costume Item Type Metadata

Cataloguer with Date

Arden Kirkland 2/27/1993, Boesche, Kolanko 2/3/2010; Taylor Bowen, 3/5/14

Color Main

Color Secondary

Closure Placement

Neckline

Sleeve Type

Sleeve Length

Skirt Type

Length

Costume Components

Chest

28

Waist

26

Center Front Length

55.5

Center Back Length

67.5

Hem Circumference

186

Measurements Other

Bodice: 22.75 inch (inner waistband), 5.325 (undersleeve)

All Measurements

Bodice: 28 inches (chest); 26 inches (waist); 14.5 inches (center front length); 14 inches (center back length)

Skirt: 30 inches (waist), 2 inch extension added; 41 inches (center front length); 53.5 inches (center back length); 186 inches (hem circumference)

References

(1900) Deslavdres p. 41, Bond p. 14 (1900-1910), Groos - Smith p. 170 (1895), Cunnington (380-390), Steele, F&E, 67

Date Earliest

1893

Date Latest

1905

Gender

Classification

costume
clothing

Function

Exhibitions

Vassar Girls and Other Women

Public Information

This evening bodice and skirt are both displayed inside-out to indicate their inner construction. Their general silhouette, whether inside-out or right-side-out, represents the important transitional point between the curves and elaboration of the nineteenth century and the straight lines and simplicity of the twentieth century. The fullness of the earlier periods is present in the pouf sleeves of the bodice and the stiffened texture of the skirt; yet the strong, flowing line that gains precedence in the twentieth century is also present in the fitted shape, pointed front, and lack of extensive trimming of the bodice, and in the fitted waist and dramatic flare (rather than gathering) of the skirt. The strength of the solid field of color of either piece foreshadows the strength of the element of color in the 1920's.

Condition Term

very good

Condition Description

Panel has been added to skirt waist to add 2 inches to waist measurement; some grey surface stains on skirt

Storage Location

P11

Exhibition Notes

16 white satin evening skirt, c. 1893 (inside-out to show construction) 1992.82b 17 black short sleeved silk evening bodice, c.1891 (inside-out to show construction) 1992.130
label: 'Marv Blount / Ogdensburg, NY'
'This evening bodice and skirt are both displayed inside-out to indicate their inner construction. Their general silhouette, whether inside-out or right-side-out, represents the important transitional point between the curves and elaboration of the nineteenth century and the straight lines and simplicity of the twentieth century. The fullness of the earlier periods is present in the pouf sleeves of the bodice and the stiffened texture of the skirt; yet the strong, flowing line that gains precedence in the twentieth century is also present in the fitted shape, pointed front, and lack of extensive trimming of the bodice, and in the fitted waist and dramatic flare (rather than gathering) of the skirt. The strength of the solid field of color of either piece foreshadows the strength of the element of color in the 1920's. '

Work Type

Citation

“Ivory Satin Ensemble with Oriental Print,” Vassar College Costume Collection, accessed May 22, 2024, https://vccc.vassarspaces.net/items/show/754.

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