Navy Bodice with Red Yoke

Brief Item Record

Title: Navy Bodice with Red Yoke

Creator: MJ

Date: 1905 (circa)

Description: Bodice of navy blue wool faille with square yoke of red wool, trimmed with stripes of black braid and edged with curved black braid trim. Front sections overlap with hook and eye closures; standing collar hooks at CB.

Full Item Record

Dublin Core

Identifier

VC1992048

Title

Navy Bodice with Red Yoke

Description

Bodice of navy blue wool faille with square yoke of red wool, trimmed with stripes of black braid and edged with curved black braid trim. Front sections overlap with hook and eye closures; standing collar hooks at CB.

Creator

Date

1905 (circa)

Subject

Clothing and dress

Extent

33.5 inches (chest), 23 inches (waist), 18 inches (center back length), other measurements: across back shoulders = 11", neck = 13.25"

Type

Physical Object

Temporal Coverage

Rights

http://rightsstatements.org/vocab/InC-EDU/1.0/

Rights Holder

© Vassar College Costume Collection. Images in this collection may be used for teaching, classroom presentation, and research purposes only. For other reuse, reproduction and publication of these images, contact costumeshop@vassar.edu.

Costume Item Type Metadata

Color Main

Color Secondary

Closure

Chest

33.5

Waist

23

Center Back Length

18

Measurements Other

across back shoulders = 11", neck = 13.25"

All Measurements

33.5 inches (chest), 23 inches (waist), 18 inches (center back length), other measurements: across back shoulders = 11", neck = 13.25"

Label

tag: MJ -?, very faintly printed on inside waistband at CB

References

Arnold (2), 48 (1898) - sleeves Waugh ???, The Cut of Women's Clothes, 280 Malonff ???, 59 (1902)

Date Earliest

1900

Date Latest

1910

Gender

Classification

costume
clothing

Category

Exhibitions

Vassar Girls and Other Women

Public Information

These two bodices represent the development of sportswear in the early twentieth century. 1992.48, of navy blue silk faille with a yoke of red wool trimmed with horizontal stripes of black braid, is a youthful, sporty version of the sailor or middy blouse, fitted to the silhouette of 1900-1905. While separate gymsuits existed by that time for private single sex sports activities (see #7 and #8), more public events, especially those at which men would be in attendance, would require a look more in keeping with the prevailing fashions of the day. This bodice, neither middy nor fashionable waist, is a compromise between the two. 1992.138, however, of black wool with a white pinstripe and black velvet ribbon trim, is a more sophisticated, slightly less casual approach to similarly informal events. Designed in a less sporty nature, it may well have been worn for classes or other such day-to day situations. While both bodices express participation in the 'compartmentalized day' discussed above, they simultaneously express a breaking down of certain formalities: the achievement of a compromise between certain activities, traditions, and styles.

Condition Term

good

Condition Description

fraying trim at waistline, braid coming loose on cuff of right sleeve

Storage Location

E3

Exhibition Notes

4 black and white striped wool waist, c. 1902 1992.138 5 sailor style waist of navy wool, 1900-1905 1992.48 These two bodices represent the development of sportswear in the early twentieth century. 1992.48, of navy blue silk faille with a yoke of red wool trimmed with horizontal stripes of black braid, is a youthful, sporty version of the sailor or middy blouse, fitted to the silhouette of 1900-1905. While separate gymsuits existed by that time for private single sex sports activities (see #7 and #8), more public events, especially those at which men would be in attendance, would require a look more in keeping with the prevailing fashions of the day. This bodice, neither middy nor fashionable waist, is a compromise between the two. 1992.138, however, of black wool with a white pinstripe and black velvet ribbon trim, is a more sophisticated, slightly less casual approach to similarly informal events. Designed in a less sporty nature, it may well have been worn for classes or other such day-to day situations. While both bodices express participation in the 'compartmentalized day' discussed above, they simultaneously express a breaking down of certain formalities: the achievement of a compromise between certain activities, traditions, and styles.

Work Type

Pattern

Citation

MJ, “Navy Bodice with Red Yoke,” Vassar College Costume Collection, accessed April 14, 2024, https://vccc.vassarspaces.net/items/show/720.