1879 Graduation Ensemble

VC1984001

1879 Graduation Ensemble

Ivory ensemble of silk satin and lace with taffeta trim: basque bodice of ivory satin; fitted; with 3/4 length sleeves; lace ruffle trim at collar and down CF and cuffs. Skirt of ivory satin; panel of lace at front, fullness at back to accommodate bustle; attached bustle drape of satin and lace buttons over CB; slight trim. Cape of ivory satin; fringe trim along center front opening edges, hemline, and edge of collar; back panels cut on the bias, diagonal striped pattern picked out; small round buttons covered with off white crocheted trim; straight seams machine sewn, all else is hand sewn; thin pads of cotton batting at front edge of armscye, patches of jersey with pinched edges under arms; approximately 6 inches wide stiff muslin inside hem; separate underskirt of dark tan polished cotton and overskirt of satin; long hanging wide satin ribbon trim on skirt back to right of bustle (hanging almost to hem); silk twill tape to finish edges of inside seams. Worn by Sallie Tucker Blake at her graduation from Vassar in 1879.

1879

Clothing and dress

34 inches (chest), 22.5 inches (waist), 41 inches (hips), 68 inches (center back length), other measurements: Bodice: Length at CB = 24, Waist = 24; Skirt: Length at CB = 44, Waist = 22 1/2cape: CB length-24.5, fringe-4, center front-25, collar height-3.5, overarm- 18.5

Physical Object

http://rightsstatements.org/vocab/InC-EDU/1.0/

© Vassar College Costume Collection. Images in this collection may be used for teaching, classroom presentation, and research purposes only. For other reuse, reproduction and publication of these images, contact costumeshop@vassar.edu.

Arden Kirkland 1/17/2009 2010

34

22.5

41

68

Bodice: Length at CB = 24, Waist = 24; Skirt: Length at CB = 44, Waist = 22 1/2cape: CB length-24.5, fringe-4, center front-25, collar height-3.5, overarm- 18.5

34 inches (chest), 22.5 inches (waist), 41 inches (hips), 68 inches (center back length), other measurements: Bodice: Length at CB = 24, Waist = 24; Skirt: Length at CB = 44, Waist = 22 1/2cape: CB length-24.5, fringe-4, center front-25, collar height-3.5, overarm- 18.5

the granddaughter of Sallie Tucker Blake

letter from Mary Gesek Jan 27, 1984Arnold, 1860-1940, 32 (1874-7)

1879

1879

costume

clothing

Vassar Girls and Other Women

This ivory silk taffeta bustle dress, trimmed with lace and satin ribbon, was worn by Sallie Tucker Blake at Vassar's commencement exercises of 1879. Mrs. Blake also carried a bouquet of Jacqueminot roses. For 19th century Vassar, respect for women's education and achievement takes the clothed form of an elaborated yet concealed body. Mary Harriott Norris '70 tells us of the steps taken for the sake of modesty for Vassar's earlier graduating classes: 'The first classes that graduated underwent an ordeal as characteristic of Miss Lyman as it is amusing. My own class numbered thirty-four. When we were dressed in our Commencement gowns, and preliminary to the summons to march to the chapel where the Commencement exercises were to be held, we assembled in Miss Lyman's bedroom. Beside a big, round table stood a step-ladder, and Winnie, with thread and needle, scissors and pins. Miss Lyman received us graciously, although with a calm observation of each one, very summarizing. One by one we mounted the steps to the table, while Miss Lyman and Winnie, at a distance, surveyed the hang of our skirts, as well as the length, to see if there would be too great an exposure of feet from the rostrum. Those were the days, it must be remembered, when it was considered vulgar for a young lady to cross her feet in a parlor. In several cases, Winnie ripped here and pinned there, or sewed a reef, all being done with incredible skill and swiftness,' (Mary Harriott Norris in The Golden Age of Vassar. Poughkeepsie: Vassar College, 1915. pp. 35-6).

good

a-- stain on front bodice b--lace ripping, tears at center back near waist over bustle

has its own

F9

1/27/1984

from 'Vassar Girls and Other Women: 1854-1925'exhibition, June 1993:211879 ivory silk taffeta and lace graduation dress of Sallie Tucker Blake1984.1 abGift of the granddaughter of Sallie Tucker Blake, Class of 1879This ivory silk taffeta bustle dress trimmed with lace and satin ribbon was worn by Sallie Tucker Blake at the commencement exercises of 1879. Mrs. Blake also carried a bouquet of Jacqueminot roses.For 19th century Vassar, respect for women's education and achievement takes the clothed form of an elaborated yet concealed body. Mary Harriott Norris '70 tells us of the steps taken for the sake of modesty for Vassar's earlier graduating classes:'The first classes that graduated underwent an ordeal as characteristic of Miss Lyman as it is amusing. My own class numbered thirty-four. When we were dressed in our Commencement gowns, and preliminary to the summons to march to the chapel where the Commencement exercises were to be held, we assembled in Miss Lyman's bedroom. Beside a big, round table stood a step-ladder, and Winnie, with thread and needle, scissors and pins. Miss Lyman received us graciously, although with a calm observation of each one, very summarizing. One by one we mounted the steps to the table, while Miss Lyman and Winnie, at a distance, surveyed the hang of our skirts, as well as the length, to see if there would be too great an exposure of feet from the rostrum. Those were the days, it must be remembered, when it was considered vulgar for a young lady to cross her feet in a parlor. In several cases, Winnie ripped here and pinned there, or sewed a reef, all being done with incredible skill and swiftness,' (Mary Harriott Norris in The Golden Age of Vassar. Poughkeepsie: Vassar College, 1915. pp. 35-6).