Small Wire Crescent Bustle Cage

Brief Item Record

Title: Small Wire Crescent Bustle Cage

Date: 1880 (circa)

Description: Small bustle cage with 2 pieces of crescent shaped wire mesh held by cotton tape, with a metal buckle closure. Black braided wire and beige cotton tapes; waistband of cotton tabby weave tape with 1 buckle closure; 2 rolls of braided wire suspended from waistband by vertical loops of cotton and tabby weave tape; ends of wire enclosed in wider metal strips covered by cotton tape.

Full Item Record

Dublin Core

Identifier

VC1992159

Title

Small Wire Crescent Bustle Cage

Description

Small bustle cage with 2 pieces of crescent shaped wire mesh held by cotton tape, with a metal buckle closure. Black braided wire and beige cotton tapes; waistband of cotton tabby weave tape with 1 buckle closure; 2 rolls of braided wire suspended from waistband by vertical loops of cotton and tabby weave tape; ends of wire enclosed in wider metal strips covered by cotton tape.

Date

1880 (circa)

Subject

Clothing and dress

Extent

25 inches (waist), 6.5 inches (center back length), other measurements: width= 12

Type

Physical Object

Temporal Coverage

Rights

http://rightsstatements.org/vocab/InC-EDU/1.0/

Rights Holder

© Vassar College Costume Collection. Images in this collection may be used for teaching, classroom presentation, and research purposes only. For other reuse, reproduction and publication of these images, contact costumeshop@vassar.edu.

Costume Item Type Metadata

Cataloguer with Date

Arden Kirkland 12/09/1992

Closure

Waist

25

Center Back Length

6.5

Measurements Other

width= 12

All Measurements

25 inches (waist), 6.5 inches (center back length), other measurements: width= 12

References

Wilcox, The Mode in Costume illus. p.318 Folger, 150, 153 (1902, 1904) Batterberry, 247

Date Earliest

1875

Date Latest

1885

Gender

Classification

costume
clothing

Category

Function

Exhibitions

Vassar Girls and Other Women

Public Information

By the 1880's, the ideal feminine form had changed to a more slender, vertical shape, with the fullness of the skirt moved to the back and further elaborated by the hidden structures of bustle pads and cages such as 1992.158, 1992.159, and 1992.160. Legs were still completely hidden by a full length skirt wrapped and draped around the legs (unable to swing as the crinoline did). The following account of an early Vassar student reflects the extent to which modesty concerning one's legs was still an issue:
'The chairs on the platform were awfully high, my skirts were starched exceedingly stiff, and I had a terrible consciousness that I was displaying more than the tips of my slippers. I couldn't make any change of position then so I didn't stir while the President made his opening prayer. Then came my show... …I got back to my seat safely, my train behaving like an angel and never turning ovcr or under once during the whole evening, but when I sat down my dress would not stay down, so I finally grew hardened and concluded to appear as if that were the way I 'always came down stairs.' To relieve your shocked feelings I will comfort you as the girls afterwards comforted me with assurances that there was nothing objectionable in view from even the nearest part of the audience.' (letter from Mary S. Morris to Mithery on May 20,1880).

Condition Term

very good

Condition Description

1 end of waistband very frayed

Storage Location

A1

Exhibition Notes

By the 1880's, the ideal feminine form had changed to a more slender, vertical shape, with the fullness of the skirt moved to the back and further elaborated by the hidden structures of bustle pads and cages such as 1992.158, 1992.159, and 1992.160. Legs were still completely hidden by a full length skirt wrapped and draped around the legs (unable to swing as the crinoline did). The following account of an early Vassar student reflects the extent to which modesty concerning one's legs was still an issue:
'The chairs on the platform were awfully high, my skirts were starched exceedingly stiff, and I had a terrible consciousness that I was displaying more than the tips of my slippers. I couldn't make any change of position then so I didn't stir while the President made his opening prayer. Then came my show... …I got back to my seat safely, my train behaving like an angel and never turning ovcr or under once during the whole evening, but when I sat down my dress would not stay down, so I finally grew hardened and concluded to appear as if that were the way I 'always came down stairs.' To relieve your shocked feelings I will comfort you as the girls afterwards comforted me with assurances that there was nothing objectionable in view from even the nearest part of the audience.' (letter from Mary S. Morris to Mithery on May 20,1880).

Work Type

Citation

“Small Wire Crescent Bustle Cage,” Vassar College Costume Collection, accessed December 5, 2023, http://vccc.vassarspaces.net/items/show/831.