Wire Bustle Cage

VC1992158

Wire Bustle Cage

Bustle (cage), of natural cotton muslin and twill tapes and metal wire bands: half-cylinder shape, with metal bands horizontally forming shape, suspended from vertical tapes; waistband of tape with adjustable buckle and hanging tabs; flat back of muslin, open down CB with grommets for laced closure; tape tabs hanging from lowest band of metal. A label is printed on the inside of the waistband. The first part is illegible, but the remainder reads: 1868. REISSUE, MAR. 28, 1871. PAT'D APR. 18, 1871.; Bustle (cage), of natural cotton muslin and twill tapes and metal wire bands: half-cylinder shape, with metal bands horizontally forming shape, suspended from vertical tapes; waistband of tape with adjustable buckle and hanging tabs; flat back of muslin, open down CB with grommets for laced closure; tape tabs hanging from lowest band of metal.

1871

Clothing and dress

21-29 inches (waist), 12.5 inches (center back length), other measurements: width at bottom= 7 1/2 inches (13 1/3 when flat); depth = 4 1/2 inches

Physical Object

http://rightsstatements.org/vocab/InC-EDU/1.0/

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Arden Kirkland 12/09/1992

21-29

12.5

width at bottom= 7 1/2 inches (13 1/3 when flat); depth = 4 1/2 inches

21-29 inches (waist), 12.5 inches (center back length), other measurements: width at bottom= 7 1/2 inches (13 1/3 when flat); depth = 4 1/2 inches

(illegible) 1868. REISSUE, MAR. 28, 187N. PAT'D APR. 18, 1871.

Batterberry, 247

1871

1871

costume

clothing

Vassar Girls and Other Women

By the 1880's, the ideal feminine form had changed to a more slender, vertical shape, with the fullness of the skirt moved to the back and further elaborated by the hidden structures of bustle pads and cages such as 1992.158, 1992.159, and 1992.160. Legs were still completely hidden by a full length skirt wrapped and draped around the legs (unable to swing as the crinoline did). The following account of an early Vassar student reflects the extent to which modesty concerning one's legs was still an issue:
'The chairs on the platform were awfully high, my skirts were starched exceedingly stiff, and I had a terrible consciousness that I was displaying more than the tips of my slippers. I couldn't make any change of position then so I didn't stir while the President made his opening prayer. Then came my show...…I got back to my seat safely, my train behaving like an angel and never turning ovcr or under once during the whole evening, but when I sat down my dress would not stay down, so I finally grew hardened and concluded to appear as if that were the way I 'always came down stairs.' To relieve your shocked feelings I will comfort you as the girls afterwards comforted me with assurances that there was nothing objectionable in view from even the nearest part of the audience.' (letter from Mary S. Morris to Mithery on May 20,1880).

very good

some fraying of attached tapes.

A1

By the 1880's, the ideal feminine form had changed to a more slender, vertical shape, with the fullness of the skirt moved to the back and further elaborated by the hidden structures of bustle pads and cages such as 1992.158, 1992.159, and 1992.160. Legs were still completely hidden by a full length skirt wrapped and draped around the legs (unable to swing as the crinoline did). The following account of an early Vassar student reflects the extent to which modesty concerning one's legs was still an issue:'
The chairs on the platform were awfully high, my skirts were starched exceedingly stiff, and I had a terrible consciousness that I was displaying more than the tips of my slippers. I couldn't make any change of position then so I didn't stir while the President made his opening prayer. Then came my show...…I got back to my seat safely, my train behaving like an angel and never turning over or under once during the whole evening, but when I sat down my dress would not stay down, so I finally grew hardened and concluded to appear as if that were the way I 'always came down stairs.' To relieve your shocked feelings I will comfort you as the girls afterwards comforted me with assurances that there was nothing objectionable in view from even the nearest part of the audience.' (letter from Mary S. Morris to Mithery on May 20,1880).