Wedding Dress of Margaret A. Heminway
Brief Item Record
Title: Wedding Dress of Margaret A. Heminway
Date: 1854
Description: Dress of cream silk taffeta; lining made of off-white polished cotton; crinoline silhouette; boned bodice, barrel-chested, princess seams in back, three waist darts in front; high neckline, finished with fine piping of about 1/6"; cap sleeves with two ruffles; boning at center back and through the front; brass hooks and eyes at center back; piped waistline; very full skirt, required hoop skirt; floor length; at the waistline cartridge pleats in back and knife pleats at front; "Margaret A. Heminway's Wedding dress, married June 21, 1854" handwritten on the boning inside bodice; dress was hand-stitched.
Full Item Record
Dublin Core
Identifier
VC1992087
Title
Wedding Dress of Margaret A. Heminway
Description
Dress of cream silk taffeta; lining made of off-white polished cotton; crinoline silhouette; boned bodice, barrel-chested, princess seams in back, three waist darts in front; high neckline, finished with fine piping of about 1/6"; cap sleeves with two ruffles; boning at center back and through the front; brass hooks and eyes at center back; piped waistline; very full skirt, required hoop skirt; floor length; at the waistline cartridge pleats in back and knife pleats at front; "Margaret A. Heminway's Wedding dress, married June 21, 1854" handwritten on the boning inside bodice; dress was hand-stitched.
Date
1854
Subject
Clothing and dress
Extent
31 inches (chest), 22 inches (waist), 56.5 inches (center front length), 56 inches (center back length), other measurements: Hem = 2 yards; 35
Type
Physical Object
Rights
http://rightsstatements.org/vocab/InC-EDU/1.0/
Is Referenced By
For Better and For Worse
Rights Holder
© Vassar College Costume Collection. Images in this collection may be used for teaching, classroom presentation, and research purposes only. For other reuse, reproduction and publication of these images, contact costumeshop@vassar.edu.
Costume Item Type Metadata
Cataloguer with Date
Arden Kirkland 4/18/1993; Turpin, Thompson, Boesche, Starr 3/3/2010; Alexandra Figler, 1/24/14
Color Main
Technique
Dress Type
Closure
Closure Placement
Sleeve Length
Waistline
Skirt Type
Length
Costume Components
Chest
31
Waist
22
Center Front Length
56.5
Center Back Length
56
Measurements Other
Hem = 2 yards; 35
All Measurements
31 inches (chest), 22 inches (waist), 56.5 inches (center front length), 56 inches (center back length), other measurements: Hem = 2 yards; 35
Label
"Margaret A. Heminway's wedding dress, married June 21, 1854" handwritten on boning inside bodice
Worn by
References
Bonder 385 (1850-60)Bradfield, 195-6 91856-7)Collard ???, plate after p. 21 (1861)Fe;ger 8 (1854, 1855)???
Date Earliest
1854
Date Latest
1854
Culture
Gender
Classification
costume
clothing
Category
Function
Exhibitions
Vassar Girls and Other Women
Public Information
One of the fascinations of this dress comes from the fact that the bride's name is recorded on the inside of the dress, with 'Margaret A. Heminway's wedding dress, married June 21, 1854'handwritten in ink on the boning inside the bodice. Genealogical records indicate that she married Alfred W. Sansbury in Palmyra, New York. Their daughter, Mary Louise Sansbury, married Herbert Elmer Mills who became Vassar Professor of Economics in 1890. Although the date of this dress precedes the founding of Vassar, this piece is in exquisite condition and therefore serves as a valuable example of the early crinoline period. The fullness of the crinoline skirt is balanced with simplicity elsewhere in the dress. While the mere size of the skirt would serve to focus attention on the bride, allowing her to take up a great deal of space on her very important day, the absence of elaborate trimmings would not draw further attention away from the bride's own beauty.
Condition Term
very good
Condition Description
detached pleats at center front; staining at armpits, mostly at interior; discoloring near hooks and eyes
Treatment
The padded wooden mannequin was re-shaped and re-padded to better fit this dress. A net hoop skirt was dressed on the mannequin to provide a foundation garment, but the shape was too conical and not rounded enough at the top, so tissue paper was inserted between the hoop and the skirt fabric to round out the shape over the hips and soften the edges of the metal hoops underneath (as a proper petticoat would have done).
Mannequin
Margaret
Storage Location
B1
Holding Institution
Exhibition Notes
from 'Vassar Girls and Other Women: 1854-1925'exhibition, June 1993:241854 ivory silk taffeta wedding dress of Margaret A, Heminway1992.87Handwriting on the boning inside the bodice of the dress reads:'Margaret A. Heminway's wedding dress / married June 21, 1854.'In this, dress, the fullness of the crinoline skirt is balanced with simplicity elsewhere in the dress. While the mere size of the skirt would serve to focus attention on the bride, allowing her to take up a great deal of space on her very important day, the absence of elaborate trimmings would not draw further attention away from the bride's own beauty. Although the date of this dress precedes the founding of Vassar, as the earliest documented object in the VCCC, this piece is in exquisite condition and therefore serves as a valuable example of the early crinoline period.
Work Type
Citation
“Wedding Dress of Margaret A. Heminway,” Vassar College Costume Collection, accessed December 3, 2023, http://vccc.vassarspaces.net/items/show/759.