Gray Silk Evening Bodice with Lace

VC1992069

Gray Silk Evening Bodice with Lace

Grey silk evening bodice with lace sleeves and yoke'; grey-blue heavy silk, grey -t blue silk satin, metal boning (possibly plastic), cotton batting, lined w/ white polished cotton, lavender silk ribbon, cotton (?); black ribbon at cuffs; blue twisted cordFitted, with boning, puffed shoulders with long lace sleeves; lace yoke up to collar; pointed bottom at front and at back; one waist dart; princess seam in back; bust padding Ruched satin detail along bust front and back with lavender ribbon applique; ruched ruffles at puffed sleeves with blue cord detail; Cream buttons at back of lace yoke; laces up at CB (no laces currently); sectioned lace sleeves with black ribbon threaded through cuff tied in bow;

1855-1865

Clothing and dress

36 inches (chest), 23 inches (waist), 18 inches (center front length), 21 inches (center back length), other measurements: Sleeves = 24.5

Physical Object

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Arden Kirkland 4/18/1993Margaret Thompson, Molly Turpin 3/3/2010

36

23

18

21

Sleeves = 24.5

36 inches (chest), 23 inches (waist), 18 inches (center front length), 21 inches (center back length), other measurements: Sleeves = 24.5

accession label sewn in

mcCellan, 229 (1854), 249 91862)1860-1940 Arnold, 22 (1861-4)Bomher/, 361 (1846)Collard, 16Cost Inst.: 1985.20.3a (1856), c147.64.1c (early 1860's), c163.231a (1860), c154.32.3a (1855)

1855

1865

costume

clothing

Vassar Girls and Other Women

The interest of this bodice, at least for the purpose of this study, lies in its attempts at modesty. While the main portion of the bodice suggests a very low neckline and very short sleeves, the potential immodesty of these aspects is prevented by the addition of an inset of ivory net and lace at the neckline and of ivory net full length sleeves, which are separated into five poufs by strips of ivory lace trim. Such attempts at concealment may have been the response to an authority figure's view' of modesty, as was the case for many Vassar students in response to the edicts of the first Lady Principal MissLyman:'The Lady Principal's ideas concerning dress, which would now seem extravagantly puritanical, were held by many in her day. She considered certain fashions not so much immoral as unmoral, and issued stringent regulations concerning bodices. Low neck and short sleeves were prohibited although most young girls then wore afternoon or party gowns made in this fashion. Frequently a girl would obey the letter and evade the spirit. At the evening concerts given by the musical department, the soloists would advance to the front of the rostrum, their arms covered with sleeves of such transparent net, thatat a short distance they could perceive the sharpest vision,' (Mary Harriot Norris in The Golden Age of Vasssr, Poughkeepsie; Vassar College. 1915 pp.31-2).

good

inner tape at waistline has frayed, only several separate pieces remainsome yellow/brown discoloring in net/lace yoke?varied small holes in heavy silk; some abrasion on cord; heavy discoloration of lace some for grey satin; heavy discoloration of interior; laces for back closure missing

E3

20grey silk faille evening bodice, 1855-18651992.69The interest of this bodice, at least for the purpose of this study, lies in its attempts at modesty. While the main portion of the bodice suggests a very low neckline and very short sleeves, the potential immodesty of these aspects is prevented by the addition of an inset of ivory net and lace at the neckline and of ivory net full length sleeves, which are separated into five poufs by strips of ivory lace trim. Such attempts at concealment may have been the response to an authority figure's view' of modesty, as was the case for many Vassar students in response to the edicts of the first Lady Principal MissLyman:'The Lady Principal's ideas concerning dress, which would now seem extravagantly puritanical, were held by many in her day. She considered certain fashions not so much immoral as unmoral, and issued stringent regulations concerning bodices. Low neck and short sleeves were prohibited although most young girls then wore afternoon or party gowns made in this fashion. Frequently a girl would obey the letter and evade the spirit. At the evening concerts given by the musical department, the soloists would advance to the front of the rostrum, their arms covered with sleeves of such transparent net, that at a short distance they could perceive the sharpest vision,' (Mary Harriot Norris in The Golden Age of Vasssr, Poughkeepsie; Vassar College. 1915 pp.31-2).