Pingat Bustle Ensemble

Brief Item Record

Title: Pingat Bustle Ensemble

Creator: Emile Pingat

Date: 1876-1886

Description: Two piece bustle ensemble (dinner dress) of burgundy velvet and satin with repeated motif of red, gold, blue, and burgundy glass beads; bodice (a): basque bodice of burgundy velvet with center front button closure, square neckline trimmed with ivory lace, waist angled in front with pleated bustle in back, 3/4 length 2 piece sleeves with beaded cuffs and ivory lace ruffle, ivory silk taffeta lining, ivory grosgrain ribbon inner waistband printed with designer label, metal boning, silk covered metal weights; Skirt (b): bustle skirt of burgundy velvet, angled velvet swag trimmed with beaded motif, draped burgundy silk satin swag continues into train, burgundy silk satin bows, knife pleated trim at hem, dark gray cotton broadcloth interfacing, metal hook and eye closures, hidden pocket.

Full Item Record

Dublin Core

Identifier

VC1992004

Title

Pingat Bustle Ensemble

Description

Two piece bustle ensemble (dinner dress) of burgundy velvet and satin with repeated motif of red, gold, blue, and burgundy glass beads; bodice (a): basque bodice of burgundy velvet with center front button closure, square neckline trimmed with ivory lace, waist angled in front with pleated bustle in back, 3/4 length 2 piece sleeves with beaded cuffs and ivory lace ruffle, ivory silk taffeta lining, ivory grosgrain ribbon inner waistband printed with designer label, metal boning, silk covered metal weights; Skirt (b): bustle skirt of burgundy velvet, angled velvet swag trimmed with beaded motif, draped burgundy silk satin swag continues into train, burgundy silk satin bows, knife pleated trim at hem, dark gray cotton broadcloth interfacing, metal hook and eye closures, hidden pocket.

Creator

Date

1876-1886

Subject

Clothing and dress

Extent

42.25 inches (chest), 28.75 inches (waist), 48 inches (hips), 78.25 inches (center back length), other measurements: Bodice: bust 42.25, waist 28.75, CB neck to waist 17.25, front shoulders 14.75, back shoulders 14.625, CB length 30.75, back bust 20.5

Skirt: waist 28.75, center front length 42.625, center back length 61, back hips 48

Other: side length 44.5, sleeve: 15.375(+3of lace), underarm to hem 11.75, underarm to waist 7

Type

Physical Object

Spatial Coverage

Temporal Coverage

Rights

Rights Holder

© Vassar College Costume Collection. Images in this collection may be used for teaching, classroom presentation, and research purposes only. For other reuse, reproduction and publication of these images, contact costumeshop@vassar.edu.

Costume Item Type Metadata

Cataloguer with Date

Arden Kirkland 1/12/2009

Color Main

Chest

42.25

Waist

28.75

Hips

48

Center Back Length

78.25

Measurements Other

Bodice: bust 42.25, waist 28.75, CB neck to waist 17.25, front shoulders 14.75, back shoulders 14.625, CB length 30.75, back bust 20.5

Skirt: waist 28.75, center front length 42.625, center back length 61, back hips 48

Other: side length 44.5, sleeve: 15.375(+3of lace), underarm to hem 11.75, underarm to waist 7

All Measurements

42.25 inches (chest), 28.75 inches (waist), 48 inches (hips), 78.25 inches (center back length), other measurements: Bodice: bust 42.25, waist 28.75, CB neck to waist 17.25, front shoulders 14.75, back shoulders 14.625, CB length 30.75, back bust 20.5

Skirt: waist 28.75, center front length 42.625, center back length 61, back hips 48

Other: side length 44.5, sleeve: 15.375(+3of lace), underarm to hem 11.75, underarm to waist 7

Label

E. PINGAT / 30 RUE LOUIS LE GRAND 30 / PARIS'at center of inner grosgrain ribbon waistband

References

Steele, Fashion and Eroticism, p. 112. Coleman, Opulent Era, p. 178, 182-3, 188, 190. Arnold, 1860-1940, p. 36. (1882-3)

Date Earliest

1876

Date Latest

1886

Culture

Gender

Classification

costume
clothing

Category

Exhibitions

Vassar Girls and Other Women

French 280

Public Information

This dinner dress by the French couturier Emile Pingat extends more toward the 'extravagance' discouraged by Miss Lyman (Vassar's first Lady Principal, from 1865-1871). Although it might indeed seem extravagant in comparison to 1992.124ab, such a gown might be the compromise of a more affluent young woman, as Pingat's designs have been described as 'murmuring elegance rather than shouting affluence. . .' (Elizabeth Ann Coleman. The Opulent Era- Fashions of Worth, Doucet and Pingat. New York: Thames and Hudson and the Brooklyn Museum, 1989. p. 177).
In the discussion of Pingat's typical clients, it seems likely that Vassar women, as pioneers of women's higher education, would fit the prototype of Pingat clientele: ‘By and large, his ladies seem to have been a more adventuresome lot than those who flocked to Worth. Pingat clients were not merely showpieces, women on pedestals, whose role was to represent their husbands' wealth; many were achievers in their own right,' (Elizabeth Ann Coleman. The Opulent Era: Fashions of Worth, Doucet and Pingat. New York: Thames and Hudson and the Brooklyn Museum, 1989. p. 188).

Condition Term

good

Condition Description

Bodice has buttons all missing, discoloration in shape of beads (from pressure in storage), some discoloration and tears under arms, black silk taffeta lining is extremely fractured, top section of bows on tail are missing, tie inside tail is loose on one side; skirt has slightly shredded pocket, discoloration from beads below back bustle swag (especially at left), some lace trim inside skirt hemline is coming loose, some discoloration at edges of beadwork, some small tears below bows, tacking at center back of train, 3.5' tear at front left above knee.

Mannequin

1992.004ab

Storage Location

C7

Exhibition Notes

from 'Vassar Girls and Other Women: 1854-1925:'

This dinner dress by the French couturier Emile Pingat extends more toward the 'extravagance' discouraged by Miss Lyman (the first lady Principal at Vassar College, and the woman in change of the students' moral life). Although it might indeed seem extravagant in comparison to 1992.124ab, such a gown might be the compromise of a more affluent young woman, as Pingat's designs have been described as 'murmuring elegance rather than shouting affluence. . .' (Elizabeth Ann Coleman. The Opulent Era- Fashions of Worth, Doucet and Pingat. New York: Thames and Hudson and the Brooklyn Museum, 1989. p. 177).
In the discussion of Pingat's typical clients, it seems likely that Vassar women, as pioneers of women's higher education, would fit the prototype of Pingat clientele: 'By and large, his ladies seem to have been a more adventuresome lot than those who flocked to Worth. Pingat clients were not merely showpieces, women on pedestals, whose role was to represent their husbands' wealth; many were achievers in their own right,' (Elizabeth Ann Coleman. The Opulent Era: Fashions of Worth, Doucet and Pingat. New York: Thames and Hudson and the Brooklyn Museum, 1989. p. 188).

Work Type

Citation

Emile Pingat, “Pingat Bustle Ensemble,” Vassar College Costume Collection, accessed October 20, 2021, http://vccc.vassarspaces.net/items/show/676.